Non Toxic Sprays
I have always been interested in using methods to deal with insect pests and diseases that did not involve toxic chemicals. Although, what is meant by that can be debated. After all when making sprays from such things as rhubarb leaves, which are poisonous, am I making a toxic spray or not?
Using pest plants seems to be a good vengeance on them. Also using readily available Australian native species seems to be good sense. Eucalyptus has long been used as a remedy for many ailments of humans. I came across the use of Casuarina (or Allocasuarina) needles to make a fungicide which is good for damping off fungus in seedlings, and black spot and powdery mildew on plants. Use any available species. These trees are often used in windbreak and border plantings.
One recipe is 10 grams Casuarina needles to 2 litres of water, boiled for 20 minutes. Stand to cool. Make this solution up to 10 litres with additional water and stir well. Strain through cheese cloth so that it will not clog the spray nozzle. Spray over and under leaves, and around the soil beneath the plant. This much will spray 100 square metres. See this ABC Gardening Australia Fact Sheet of a few years ago for other details.
Annual Everlastings
These are wonderful flowers which can be naturalised in the garden. That is, have them growing in patches rather than in rows. They flower over a longer period if extra water is available, but still give a marvellous display on diminishing moisture in the soil. You will have seen photos in brochures about Wildflower tours to Western Australia, where it is pink or yellow or white for as far as the eye can see. That is not trick photography!
You can do the same thing on a smaller scale in your own front or back yard. Set aside a patch a few square metres in area, and put in some plants or seeds. Seed of some species is available from supermarket garden centres as well as specialty seed merchants. You can buy seedlings, or more advanced plants in the same way that you buy “potted colour†from nurseries. Instead of buying petunias, look for Rhodanthe (Helipterum) species.
These will drop seed which will probably germinate with the first rains in autumn and continue to appear year after year if you have a sand mulch on the garden bed rather than leaf litter or other organic mulch.
Don’t forget the mass planting in a large tub… be creative about your pots.
These plants need a lot of sunlight to do well, so the location of your few square metres, or your planter is an important issue for these species.
Using Everlasting Daisies
These daisies have papery “petals†and are great in posies and flower arrangements. When used with other long keeping flowers and foliage they will last for many months.Â
The flowers are picked when the bud is full, as the petals continue to open after picking, during the drying period. Alternatively pick in tight bud and the bud will continue to open a little. You need to experiment with timing according to the effect you require. Hang the flowers upside down to keep the stems straight, or use florist wire to wire the flower heads. Cut the flower with a 1-2cm stem, poke the wire into the length of the stem, and place the wire stem into a container while the petals continue to open. I have found that the amount of opening is reduced if the heads are wired. If you prefer to, wrap the wires in green florist tape designed for this purpose.
These plants flower for months. The shrubby varieties are Xerochrysm (formerly Bracteantha), and prior to that they were known as Helichrysm.
The small flowered hybrid forms have lovely colours and a massed planting of one colour, or mixed shades can be very attractive. These small varieties would be wonderful in a cottage garden. They would also look good planted 3 or 4 to a large tub.
The flowers need to be picked regularly, either for use as cut flowers, or removed altogether when fully opened and becoming fluffy on the bush. This promotes new shoots and therefore more flowers.
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Paper Daisies
I found Xerochrysm macranthum and a red flowered Xerochrysm bracteatum. These are paper daisies or everlasting daisies as they are sometimes called. When the flowers are picked they can be hung upside down so that the stems remain straight while the moisture in the stem dries. The flowers continue to open so it is a good idea to experiment with the stage of openness at picking, as to what you want the flower to be like when dry.
Another way of dealing with paper flowers is to cut the stem to within 1 cm of the flower and poke fine florist wire along the length of the stem and just into the back of the flower. Stand the wired flowers in a heavy vase until the stem dries. These are great in floral decorations, or other crafts. The flowers last a long time, at least 12 months, after which you can do a new batch to replace the old.
I cut the plants back to fresh growth to encourage more shoots along the stem and eventually flowering again. These plants should last a long time unless we get severe frost this year.
Plants for Screening and Hedges
I spent the weekend in Victor Harbor at a women’s conference. As usual hawk eyes was on the lookout for what native plants grow in this sea side town which we know reasonably well.
It rained on Saturday morning and at lunch time when the sun came out there was a wonderful smell of eucalyptus in the air. Having been to this CWCI conference many times at this venue, I have watched the Eucalyptus platypus planted along the boundary of the carpark. Some have split open in the extremes of wind, others have remained very sturdy and bushy trees ideal for the screening task. I am sure that Eucalyptus platypus has had a name change but I cannot recall it at the moment. Must do some research.
There are a number of hardy trees and large shrubs which would be good as a boundary planting. Unfortunately because they are often planted as a single row of plants, wind can be tunnelled along them or through them and cause the splitting or blowing over. Ideally another one or two rows of lower shrubs can prevent this happening and provide a perfect environment for small creatures and birds. Especially if some of the planting is devoted to providing nesting habitat with prickly plants. Not on the side where people get out of their cars of course!
Here is a list of some of my favourites in various sizes, tolerating coastal conditions, drought, moderate frost and lime:(I will add to this list later.)
Acacia iteaphylla (Flinders Range Wattle)
Acacia longifolia var. sophorae (Coastal Wattle)
Acacia pycnantha (Golden Wattle)
Adenanthos sericeus (Woollybush)
Allocasuarina muelleriana (Slaty Sheoak)
Alyogyne hakeifolia (yellow) (Red-centred Hibiscus)
Banksia media (Golden Stalk)
Banksia praemorsa (Cut-leaf Banksia)
Callistemon rugulosus (Scarlet Bottlebrush)
Calothamnus quadrifidus yellow or red (One-sided bottlebrush)
Correa glabra var. turnbullii (Rock Correa)
Chamelaucium uncinatum x axillare (Geraldton Wax family)